EDEM Couture / From Russia with Love

The Christmas couture collection at EDEM COUTURE, created by designer Daniil Berg, is based on the historical dynamic of female dress.  It is intended for modern women, who are active and professional, but also elegant and sensitive.

On this historical note, the designer‘s vision deliberately eclectic, a decision inspired by the fact that the way a woman dresses tends not to be guided by literal history, but by feeling.

The finest luxury fabrics were selected to create the collection:  silk, muslin, wool and French lace.  Festive elements were added to the dresses with hand embroidery, glass and steel beads and Swarovski crystals.

The historic gallery of ladies’ looks, which inspired Daniil Berg to create the Christmas collection for EDEM COUTURE, begins with two Isabellas, both captured in paintings by the great Rubens. The first, Isabella d’Este, brings a Renaissance angle to the collection.  The second look, worn by Spanish Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia, delivers features of the subsequent baroque epoch.

The fashion of the Spanish court in those days was distinctive for its predominantly dark tones, giving a woman an air of elegant reserve, without a trace of severity. It was these tones which formed the colour palette for the Christmas collection at EDEM COUTURE.

Daniil Berg also includes a tribute to the Romantic Period, borrowing elements of Romantic and Empire dress styles, making a smooth transition from the 16th & 17th centuries to the 18th.

For the finishing touch to a magnificent gallery of feminine looks, Daniil Berg turned to one of the most beautiful actresses of the 20th Century, Ava Gardner – “the face of an angel, body of a goddess”.  Her portrayal of two roles especially inspired him:  Cynthia Green in The Snows of Kilimanjaro and Maria Vargas in The Barefoot Contessa.  Here we witness a combination of the uninhibited behaviour of career women and, setting the Christmas collection apart – elegance and reserved sensitivity, strength and self-assurance.  Glancing at these dresses, it’s as easy to imagine oneself as a lady not of today but Renaissance era, traveling in a horse-drawn carriage rather than a premium automobile.

The message in the Christmas collection at EDEM COUTURE is unique in that the dresses aren’t just aimed at Her or those surround Her.  Her appearance is designed for a rendezvous with Him.   An exterior veil – light as a feather – hides a lower, more intimate layer of dress, where we see exquisite hand embroidery, destined to inspire the one person for whom the outfit was chosen.  The dress’s eroticism isn’t on show.  It’s barely perceptible.  Carefully concealed from foreign eyes, the soul of the dress appears in all its sensuality, only before the one man for whom it was intended.

The dresses are filled with a light sense of motion.  In order to strengthen the dynamic, the designer employs in his composition a dominating vertical movement. This dynamic direction creates a more elaborately detailed bodice, which interrelates within the complex fluid form.

Each dress is hand sewn with trimmings such as embroidered buttons, Swarovski crystals, and glass and metal beads, giving the gowns a celebratory luminance and ceremonial lightness, worthy of the occasion.

French lace made on frames of the last century is used for decoration; along with veiling, satin ribbon, bows with long ribbons, velvet and frills.  Elements of male dress add unexpected charm to these luxurious gowns, such as the cummerbund and trouser piping, combined with trains for a totally new and current ring.

Under transparent veiling, quaint snowdrops blossom on black silk organza; they are hand sewn with black Swarovski crystals set in white metal.

A red gown in duchesse satin with voluptuous skirt and puff sleeves creates a fantastical image; the beaded collar with three rows of trimming in metal beads and sequins, adding to the outfit’s solemnity.

A dress with an upper layer of organza hems a lower silk skirt, enhancing delicate black lace.  The white inner skirt layer is also adorned with worn-in white lace, embellished with embroidered crystals.

A silver jacquard dress with puff sleeves, turnover collar, trimmed with three rows of metal beads and sequins, with embroidery adding volume to the floral nature of the fabric.

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